ARTICLE - EMERALDS
In the mists of time… Impossible as it is for us to imagine, 2600 million years ago emeralds were being formed in Zimbabwe, created from intense activity in the earth’s crust that caused a fusion of the beryllium-aluminium-silicate – the emerald is part of the beryl family – and traces of chromium and vanadium, to result in one of the world’s most precious gemstones. Because of its tempestuous origins, the emerald is rarely flawless, and in fact its colour is usually more important than minor inclusions (which are known rather delightfully as ‘jardines’, the French word for gardens); a stone with a vibrant green colour and some inclusions will have a higher value than an almost perfect emerald with a paler colour. Generally speaking, very light or dark emeralds are less valuable, but unlike with a diamond, for example, a finely coloured example with inclusions is not significantly devalued. Not as hard as it looks The emerald rates 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, but because it often has a number of fissures it can be quite brittle and needs a skilled gem cutter to cut, set and clean it, and that’s how the emerald cut was developed – its square or rectangular shape with bevelled corners brings out the best of the stone without causing it too much mechanical strain. Famous fans of the emerald Everyone born under the sign of Taurus should Keeping its wearer hale and hearty The emerald is something of a magical stone if legend is to be believed. It gives faith and promotes success in love, and allows you to winkle out false friends by changing colour when in their presence. It can drive away evil spirits and give the wearer an insight into the future, and if held in the mouth it can promote a cure for dysentery. It can ward off attacks of epilepsy, bring wisdom and constancy of mind, ease kidney function and cure poisonous bites, and perhaps most helpfully for many readers of this magazine, it strengthens the owner’s memory. Now, where was I up to again… Did I mention I’m a Taurean and therefore really should be given an emerald? Stones of renown Imagine being given an emerald so large Under the cloak of the real thing The first commercially viable synthetic emeralds appeared on the market in the 1960s, so if you stick to vintage or antique stones you won’t have to worry about nefarious origins. The early synthetics were grown as a thin layer of emerald on top of natural, colourless beryl stones, and marketed as Emerita and Symeralds. Cleanliness can be dangerous Because clear oil is used on emeralds to improve clarity during the post-lapidary process, you should be careful when around hot, soapy water, as it can remove the oil. For the same reason, emeralds should never be subject to ultrasonic cleaning. This information appeared in Issue 26 of Antiques and Collectables for Pleasure & Profit.
|
be a fan of the emerald, which is the birthstone of
the Taurean. And if that’s you, you’ll be in esteemed company; Cleopatra was an avid emerald collector, and the Moguls of India revered them so much that they wore them as talismans, inscribing them with sacred text: ‘He who possesses
this charm shall enjoy the special protection of God.’ The emerald has been worshipped by the Aztecs and the ancient Incas, as well as countless royals throughout history; Queen Mary had the Cambridge and Delhi Dunbar Parure, a stunning
suite of emerald jewellery, made when she and King George V visited India for their acclamation as emperor and empress (the suite now belongs to Queen Elizabeth II).
that it ends up in the National Gem Collection of the United
States. That’s where you’ll find the 167.97 Mackay Emerald, which was mined in Colombia and was given by one Clarence H. Mackay to his wife, a feted singer with the New York Metropolitan Opera, as a wedding gift in 1931. Clarence went all
out, having the gem set in an Art Deco diamond and platinum necklace designed by Cartier. William Spencer, 6th Duke of Devonshire, was also given an emerald of rather large size by Emperor Dom Pedro I of Brazil in 1831; at 1383.95 carats, it’s
one of the largest uncut emeralds in the world. And in the Viennese Treasury there’s a vase measuring nearly 12cm high that weighs 2205 carats and was carved from a single emerald.
